Национальные парки США. Долина Монументов (Юта)
ноября 14, 2008
Полезно: современные датчики уровня давления.
Долина Монументов, в которой проходили съёмки массы известных вестернов, — один из символов Дикого Запада. Многие туристы, путешествуя по юго-западной части США, откладывают визит в это причудливое место под конец, чтоб получить от посещения невероятно красивых национальных парков США максимально яркие впечатления. Это огромная резервация индейцев навахо, расположенная на границе штатов Юта и Аризона. Небольшой участок территории, принадлежащий индейцам, открыт ими для посещения туристами. Это и есть парк племени навахо.
Долина Монументов... Вход сюда платный, но заплатить стоит: пейзажей, подобных местным, вы не увидите больше нигде во всём мире. И торговля идёт настолько удачно, что продажа билетов и проведение платных экскурсий оказывается основным источником дохода крупнейшей индейской резервации США. Но даже эта прибыль не поможет индейцам возместить ущерб, когда-то принесённый белыми поселенцами.
«Место между скалами, где нет деревьев» — так на языке навахо называется долина известных скалистых башен, которые возносятся над красно-ржавым песком. Английское название, Долина Монументов, более точное, но тоже не идеальное. Во всяком случае, ни один геолог не назвал бы это место долиной. Миллионы лет назад здесь стелилась огромная равнина, но тектонические сдвиги подняли её, оголив скалы, большая часть которых под влиянием дождя и ветра разрушилась.
Но крепчайшие из них песчаники, возраст которых составляет приблизительно 200 млн. лет, уцелели и обрели дивные формы. Они напоминают башни, шпили, стелы и кубы. Разнообразные индейские племена, населявшие эту территорию в разные времена, поклонялись этим скалам как божествам.
Каждое новое поколение коренных жителей всё лучше адаптировалось к условиям суровой пустыни. Археологи нашли здесь более сотни останков культуры анасази, которая по доселе неизвестным причинам погибла в конце XIII столетия. Вновь люди пришли в Долину Монументов в середине XIX века. Это были индейцы навахо, которые покинули свои земли, спасаясь от американской армии. А спустя 100 лет о местности, которая стала новой родиной навахо, узнал весь мир благодаря классическим вестернам Джона Форда.
«Настоящим героем моих фильмов всегда была природа, а любимой съёмочной площадкой — Долина Монументов. Здесь и реки, и горы, и равнины, и пустыни. Это самое дорогое моему сердцу место, и красивейшее во всем мире», — Джон Форд.
Человеком, который показал Форду Долину Монументов, был неудачник-коммерсант, а после выхода фильмов — миллионер Гарри Гаулдинг, который поселился здесь в 1923 году. На месте его бесприбыльного магазинчика теперь красуется шикарный отель «Gouldings Lodge», а неподалеку от отеля открыт музей с интереснейшей экспозицией.
В 1937 году Гаулдинг случайно узнал о том, что режиссёр Джон Форд разыскивает съёмочную площадку для нового фильма, и, прихватив 60 долларов и папку с фотографиями долины, коммерсант выдвинулся в Голливуд. Форд влюбился в это место с первого взгляда. Вскоре на экранах появились ленты «Дилижанс», «Как был завоёван Запад», а затем и еще пять фильмов, которые режиссёр также снимал в этом месте. Легендарный Джон Уэйн выглядел тут просто невероятно.
После выхода классических вестернов, о Долине Монументов узнал весь мир, и вскоре она стала одной из визитных карточек Америки. Сегодня Долина Монументов, как и ранее, в моде. Здесь снимаются десятки рекламных роликов и художественных фильмов. Среди них «Форрест Гамп», «Миссия Невыполнима»«, «Назад в будущее»... Чтобы добавить фильмам и роликам экзотики, к съёмкам нередко в качестве статистов приглашают индейцев навахо. Навахо — самое численное индейское племя Северной Америки. В резервации проживает более четверти миллиона человек. Индейцы сохраняют свой древний язык и обладают достаточно широкой автономией: у них есть свой парламент, совет племени, а также полицейские и судебные структуры.
На границе резервации расположен популярный среди туристов исторический памятник четырёх углов. Он представляет собой деревянный помост, установленный на единственном в США месте, где граничат одновременно четыре штата. Если лечь на этот помост и разбросить руки — одной ногой можно оказаться в Юте, второй — в Аризоне, одной рукой — в Колорадо, а второй — в Нью-Мексико.
Как утверждают навахо, с некоторого времени климат Долины Монументов стал более сухим, чем ранее. А виновником, как ни странно, был признан Клинт Иствуд. В 1985 году он снимал здесь свой фильм «Джосси Уйэлс: человек вне закона», и одну из сцен захотел снять на скале, которая ему очень понравилась. С ужасом статисты-индейцы поняли, что он выбрал именно ту скалу, которая имела для племени особое значение: она насылала на долину дожди. И с того момента, как на скалу поднялся Иствуд, она потеряла свою магическую силу...
© Золотой Глобус
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