Отчет об отдыхе в Несебре (Болгария), часть 4
октября 7, 2008
Интересно: блог о тайской жизни
За последние две недели я предоставил вам, уважаемые читатели, немало полезной и, надеюсь, интересной информации о Болгарии и отдыхе в ней, а сегодня пришло время рассказать непосредственно о древнем городе Несебр, расположенном в пяти десятках километров от одного из наиболее известных курортов государства — Бургаса. Однако, по сложившейся уже традиции, начать предлагаю не с этого, а с описания некоторых аспектов болгарской жизни.
Язык
Болгарский язык очень похож на русский. Хотя еще больше он напомнил мне украинский. Часть слов полностью совпадает, а о смысле многих фраз можно догадаться интуитивно. Но это, в основном, о письменной речи, никак не об устной. Болгары разговаривают настолько быстро, что понять их очень сложно, особенно на первых порах. Хотя уже ближе к концу пребывания в стране я начал ориентироваться в речи местных жителей. Впрочем, скорее всего, болгарский язык вам не понадобится вообще, поскольку очень многие жители страны (в первую очередь, представители сферы обслуживания, продавцы) понимают и говорят по-русски. Некоторые даже без акцента.
Дороги
Далеко не каждый украинский автобус способен преодолеть расстояние в 50 километров за полчаса. Я бы сказал несколько иначе. Не каждый легковой автомобиль, разъезжающий по Украине, способен это сделать. И дело даже не в пробках, которые присущи только крупнейшим городам страны (ладно, будем говорить лишь о Киеве, поскольку пробки других городов — смешные пародии на киевские. Впрочем, заторы столицы Украины точно так же не сравнишь с заторами в Москве). Дело в качестве полотна.
Так, к примеру, дорога в деревню Бата, расположенную где-то в горах, километрах в 20 на запад от береговой линии, ничем не уступает Бориспольской трассе, ведущей к главному аэропорту Украины. В сравнении же с другими дорожными артериями нашей столицы эта горная дорога значительно выигрывает. Вот и получается такая ситуация, при которой средняя скорость передвижения на автобусе по трассе, идущей вдоль берега, составляет до 100 км/час. А ведь это фактически скорость легковых автомобилей по Одесской трассе — без преувеличения, лучшей дороге Украины.
Несебр
Закончили с отступлениями. Теперь говорим только о Несебре. Прежде всего, отмечу, что это один из древнейших городов Болгарии. В период с III по VI столетие он был известен под названием Мессембрия, а в 510 году, как и многие другие причерноморские города, получил статус греческой колонии. Сегодня же город состоит из двух частей: старой и новой.
Преимущественное большинство отелей находится в Новом Городе, который расположен в континентальной части. В свою очередь, Старый Город является одним из исторических и культурных центров всей Болгарии. Более того, в 1983 году он был признан частью всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО. Сама же старая часть Несебра расположена на полуострове, связанном с сушей насыпью длиной в 400 метров и шириной около 50 метров, на которой расположена древняя ветровая мельница. Стоит отметить, что размеры полуострова также невелики: около 850 метров в длину и немногим более 300 в ширину.
Старый Город встречает своих посетителей останками городских ворот, которые датируются XII-VI столетием до нашей эры. Без преувеличения, это потрясающее зрелище. Но вход в старую часть Несебра меркнет на фоне массы древних церквей и прочих сооружений, которые сохранились здесь. Особенно меня потряс амфитеатр, построенный, разумеется, греками-колониалистами. Да и вообще древних сооружений в Старом Городе более чем достаточно. Точно так же, как туристов и, разумеется, сувенирных лавок.
Очень поразила меня в Несебре местная традиция. Судя по всему, она присуща и другим древним городам, поскольку в Созополе я наблюдал то же самое. Практически на всех столбах, деревьях, воротах и даже при входе в магазины висят не рекламные листовки, а так называемые «взъпоменания». Они представляют собой обыкновенные листочки А4, на которых напечатана информация об умершем человеке и его фотография. Так болгары чтут память.
Удивила и еще одна особенность города, которая совершенно не присуща нашим людям. Торговая улица Несебра Отец Паисий настолько чиста, что мне регулярно приходилось по нескольку минут носить бычок от только что выкуренной сигареты в руках. Сам я привык к тому, что выбросить бычок в Киеве — сущий пустяк, но, глядя на культуру местных жителей, не хотелось выглядеть свиньей. Парадокс же состоит в том, что лишь по одну сторону этой улицы стоят урны, да и те попадаются достаточно редко. Тем не менее, по Несебру ходить более чем приятно: не только красиво, но и непривычно чисто.
Еще здесь активно работают эвакуаторы, так что если вы собираетесь в Несебр на машине — будьте осторожны. К слову, автомобили эвакуируются к яхт-порту, расположенному около дороги, ведущей к Старому Городу. Об этом, кстати, предупреждает соответствующая табличка при въезде в древнюю часть Несебра.
Недвижимость в Болгарии
По всему Несебру разбросаны многочисленные агентства недвижимости, которые работают, в том числе, и с русскоязычными резидентами. Цены на местную недвижимость просто потрясли меня. Так домик площадью в 195 квадратных метров стоит 120 000 евро, апартаменты в Солнечном берегу — 58 000 евро за 90 «квадратов», квадратный метр жилья в Несебре — около 600-700 евро, а земля в 9 километрах от Солнечного берега — 3 евро (здесь земельная площадь измеряется все в тех же квадратных метрах). Для сравнения, на Южном Берегу Крыма вам вряд ли удастся купить «сотку» земли дешевле, чем за 7 000 — 10 000 долларов.
Одним словом, в Болгарии можно не только приятно провести отпуск, но и жить. А иметь там собственную недвижимость — вообще замечательно!
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